Garrett Madison Garrett Madison


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Garrett on Vinson SummitFeel the rush of standing on Earth’s highest point.  Train for Success!  Climb with Garrett on your next “Big Peak”. 

Photo: Garrett Madison on the summit of Mt. Vinson, Antarctica.


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Professional Climbing Career

Garrett Madison just concluded a successful expedition on K2, leading the first American team of climbers in decades to reach the mountain's summit on July 27th, 2014 (click here to read dispatches), and recently concluded an expedition on Mt. Everest for Madison Mountaineering.  To read the expedition recap for Everest click here.

Garrett Madison is America's Premier Everest Expedition Leader and Guide, having personally climbed to the top of the world with 37 clients over the last 6 years, more than any other American guide. In 2013 Garrett led the Alpine Ascents Everest and Lhotse climb, summitting both peaks again (May 18th & 19th) in less than 24 hours (3 clients accompanied Garrett in 2013 for "the double").  Garrett Madison successfully led the 2012 Alpine Ascents Everest team to the summit of Everest on May 20th, being the only climbers to summit that day, and without any injuries. Earlier on the evening of May 19th, 6 climbers lost their lives near the summit (North & South routes combined) as the weather turned and they were not able to make it back to high camp that night (click here to read article). As the 2011 Alpine Ascents Everest and Lhotse Expedition Leader, Garrett led the first ever successful expedition where climbers reached the summit of two 8000 meter peaks in less than 24 hours. During this historic climb Garrett also personally guided one of the climbers peak to peak in 21 hours. This expedition resulted in 100% climber success on Everest and the first ever success in climbing and guiding the Everest-Lhotse combination peak to peak.

Garrett served as Expedition Manager and oversaw guiding operations at Alpine Ascents International March 2007-March 2014. Previously he had guided for other notable international climbing guide services such as Rainier Mountaineering Inc.

Garrett Madison's other guided climbs include ascents on many of the "7 summits" as well as other notable peaks such as the Ecuador Volcanoes, the Mexico Volcanoes, peaks in Peru (Cordillera Blanca), etc. Garrett's guiding resume includes an impressive list: 10 expeditions to Aconcagua, 3 to Denali, 9 to Vinson, 3 to Kilimanjaro, 5 to Mexico, 7 to Everest, 3 to Lhotse, along with other expeditions to other major peaks in the Himalaya such as Ama Dablam, Cho Oyu, Manaslu, and K2, as well as over 182 ascents of Mt. Rainier in Washington State!

After leading hundreds of climbs / expeditions, Garrett is proud to translate 'lessons learned' in mountaineering into motivational speaking, presenting on topics such as Team Building / Team Management, Goal Setting, Leadership, Project Management, and Risk Management. As a professional mountaineer and guide, Garrett represents companies such as Sherpa Adventure Gear, Maui Jim, and Jean Richard.

Garrett is currently supporting 2015 Special Olympics World Games in Los Angeles by helping to raise funds for this event.  Garrett has donated his time to Children's Hospital in Seattle for fundraising initiatives.  Garrett enjoys 'inspirational' speaking to elementary and middle school students, and has done this consecutively the last 6 years. 

Alison Levine, author of On The Edge: The Art of High-Impact Leadership, recounts her climb with Garrett and the team on Mt. Everest in 2010, as she makes a compelling case that the leadership principles that work in the world of extreme adventure also apply to today's rigorously competitive business environments.

During his 15 year guiding career Garrett has participated on over 50 international climbing expeditions including many of the "7 summits" and stood on the top of Everest 6 times.

World Records: 

Out of the approximately 15 people having successfully completed the Everest Lhotse combination climb, Garrett Madison is the only climber in the world to have completed this climb twice.  Both of these Everest and Lhotse combinations were completed peak to peak in under the 24 hour mark.

Garrett Madison and Thomas Halliday share the record for the fastest time between two 8000 meter summits, together going 21 hours peak to peak from Everest to Lhotse in 2011 (May 19th & 20th).

Garrett has guided more climbers successfully (4) on the Everest Lhotse combination climb than any other mountain guide.  Garrett has also personally guided more climbers (37) successfully to the summit of Everest in the last 6 years than any other American mountain guide.