Professional Climbing Career
Garrett Madison is America's Premier Everest Expedition Leader and Guide, having personally climbed to the top of the world with 37 clients over the last 5 years, more than any other American guide. Garrett led the successful 2013 Alpine Ascents Everest and Lhotse climb, summitting both peaks again (May 18th & 19th) in less than 24 hours (3 clients accompanied Garrett this year in "the double"). Garrett Madison successfully led the 2012 Alpine Ascents Everest team to the summit of Everest on May 20th, being the only climbers to summit that day, and without any injuries. Earlier on the evening of May 19th, 6 climbers lost their lives near the summit (North & South routes combined) as the weather turned and they were not able to make it back to high camp that night. As the 2011 Alpine Ascents Everest and Lhotse Expedition Leader, Garrett led the first ever successful expedition where climbers reached the summit of two 8000 meter peaks in less than 24 hours. During this historic climb Garrett also personally guided one of the climbers peak to peak in 21 hours. This expedition resulted in 100% climber success on Everest and the first ever success in climbing and guiding the Everest-Lhotse combination peak to peak.
Garrett has been Expedition Manager and overseen guiding operations at Alpine Ascents International since 2007. Previously he had guided for Rainier Mountaineering Inc. since 1999 and other international guiding companies.
Garrett Madison's other guided climbs include ascents on many of the "7 summits" as well as other notable peaks such as the Ecuador Volcanoes, the Mexico Volcanoes, peaks in Peru (Cordillera Blanca), etc. Garrett's guiding resume includes an impressive list: 9 expeditions to Aconcagua, 3 to Denali, 7 to Vinson, 3 to Kilimanjaro, 5 to Mexico, 6 to Everest along with other expeditions to other major peaks in the Himalaya such as Ama Dablam, Cho Oyu, Manaslu, and over 176 ascents of Mt. Rainier!
Garrett is proud to translate his leadership and mountaineering feats into motivational speaking, presenting on topics such as Team Building, Perseverance, Leadership, and Managing Risk. As a professional mountaineer and guide, Garrett represents companies such as Sherpa Adventure Gear, Maui Jim, and Jean Richard.
Garrett is pleased to share his time as a volunteer with charitable organizations such as Boys Outdoor Leadership Development (BOLD), an organization that provides an opportunity for young men from all different backgrounds to build multi-cultural leadership, communication, and decision making skills through shared challenges, problem solving, and fun. Garrett has also donated his time to Children's Hospital for fundraising initiatives.
During his 15 year guiding career Garrett has participated on over 30 international climbing expeditions including many of the "7 summits" and stood on the top of Everest 6 times.
Out of the now 17 climbers having successfully completed the Everest Lhotse combination climb, Garrett Madison is the only climber in the world to have completed this climb twice. Both of these E & L combinations were completed peak to peak in under the 24 hour mark.
Garrett Madison & Thomas Halliday share the record for the fastest time between two 8000 meter summits, together going 21 hours peak to peak from Everest to Lhotse.
Garrett has guided more climbers successfully (4) on the Everest Lhotse combination climb than any other mountain guide. Garrett has also personally guided more climbers (37) successfully to the summit of Everest in the last 5 years than any other American mountain guide.