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Garrett Madison began guiding professionally in 1999 on Mount Rainier, and is now America’s premier Everest climber and guide. As Expedition Leader…
About Garrett
Garrett Madison began guiding professionally in 1999 on Mount Rainier, and is now America’s premier Everest climber and guide. As Expedition Leader, he has personally lead 37 climbers to the summit of Everest over the last 7 years, more than any other American. In 2011, Garrett led the first expedition in history where climbers succeeded in the Everest – Lhotse combination, reaching the summit of two 8000 meter peaks in less than 24 hours (while personally guiding one climber peak to peak in 21 hours), and again repeated this “double header” in 2013. Garrett is currently the only climber in the world to repeat this “peak to peak” combination, and holds the record for guiding climbers (4) in this endeavor. In 2014, Garrett led the first ever successfully ‘guided’ ascent of K2, arguably the hardest and most dangerous mountain in the world, reaching the summit with 2 climbers and 3 Sherpas on July 27, 2014. Garrett also regularly guides many “7 Summits” expeditions such as Aconcagua, Vinson, Kilimanjaro, Elbrus, etc., during the year. In addition, Garrett is regularly involved with film productions on Everest, participating in 4 different features over the last 3 years.
Garrett Madison
I have a reverence for K2, Mountain of mountains. The view from Camp 4, the ‘shoulder’ clearly illustrates the route to the summit.
This season we encountered deep and unstable snow just to the left of the ice cliff (Serac), above and below the ‘bottleneck’ and have decided to conclude our expedition.
We believe that conditions will not change enough in the near future to stabilize this portion of the route, and allow climbing within our risk tolerance.
We are now packing up our base camp and preparing for the 100 km trek out.
It would have been exhilarating to stand atop K2 a third time. However, as professionals our experience and training dictate that we not push into a zone we believe to be avalanche prone. Perhaps others will push on in a few days time and be the first to succeed in reaching K2’s summit this season, and descend safely.
For us, it’s been a wonderful journey shared among old friends and new, challenging ourselves on ‘the savage mountain’, exploring this remote and majestic area deep in the Karakoram range.
#madisonmountaineering #k2 #k22019 #mountainhardwear #pakistan #karakoram #baltoro #journey #expedition
918
1 day ago
Garrett Madison
A magnificent effort by our team all around, but the K2 summit was not to be. Above Camp 4 in the ‘traverse’ we found deep, sugary snow, 2+ meters in some places. It wasn’t safe to climb, so we made the decision to turn around and descend the mountain, to climb another day.
1.4K
3 days ago
Garrett Madison
Today we reached Camp 3 (7,017 m /23,150 ft) on the Cesen route on K2! Amazing views of the surrounding Karakoram peaks in Pakistan and China. #madisonmountaineering #mountainhardwear #K2 #karakoram
1.3K
4 days ago
Garrett Madison
Perched beneath a rock cliff, our Camp 2 on the Cesen route is nestled into the mountain, protected from any avalanches above. Today we decided to take a rest day here and our plan is to climb to Camp 3 tomorrow. Nice views abound as the weather continues to hold.
#madisonmountaineering #mountainhardwear #K2
842
5 days ago
Testimonials
What a great presentation! Everyone was riveted during your talk! The images were outstanding and your message really resonated with everyone. Several people told me that this was the best dinner speaker ever. I think you inspired some future mountain climbers!
It was terrific. The slides were amazing and his presentation was very tight and engaging
Garrett’s presentation was great. It was informative to those of us who may never reach that pinnacle of climbing
I loved every minute of Garrett’s presentation. It was just long enough to get a feel for what the climbs were like and short enough to keep my interest (I do not have a long attention span!) I believe that an audience of any interest level in climbing would find his talk very interesting
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