Garrett Madison began guiding professionally in 1999 on Mount Rainier, and is now America’s premier Everest climber and guide. As Expedition Leader…

2017 Everest Climber Testimonials

About Garrett

Garrett Madison began guiding professionally in 1999 on Mount Rainier, and is now America’s premier Everest climber and guide. As Expedition Leader, he has personally lead 37 climbers to the summit of Everest over the last 7 years, more than any other American. In 2011, Garrett led the first expedition in history where climbers succeeded in the Everest – Lhotse combination, reaching the summit of two 8000 meter peaks in less than 24 hours (while personally guiding one climber peak to peak in 21 hours), and again repeated this “double header” in 2013. Garrett is currently the only climber in the world to repeat this “peak to peak” combination, and holds the record for guiding climbers (4) in this endeavor. In 2014, Garrett led the first ever successfully ‘guided’ ascent of K2, arguably the hardest and most dangerous mountain in the world, reaching the summit with 2 climbers and 3 Sherpas on July 27, 2014. Garrett also regularly guides many “7 Summits” expeditions such as Aconcagua, Vinson, Kilimanjaro, Elbrus, etc., during the year. In addition, Garrett is regularly involved with film productions on Everest, participating in 4 different features over the last 3 years.

Garrett Madison
Garrett Madison
First Ama Dablam summit of the season! Big Congratulations to Kristin Bennett, Aang Phurba Sherpa and the rest of our Sherpa team on Ama Dablam! . They pushed through tough snow conditions and fixed ropes to get to the top! 20 hour summit day. Way to go team!! @madisonmtng #madisonmountaineering @mountainhardwear #mountainhardwear


2 days ago

Garrett Madison
Garrett Madison
Heading home from #Everest I’m thankful for the people and equipment that make it all possible to visit these magical places. . One item that stands out is the Mountain Hardwear Ghost Whisperer Hooded Jacket, an essential piece for myself, my climbers, and our Sherpa team. Since 2016 all of the @madisonmtng Everest, #K2, and #Vinson teams have chosen to wear this as our ‘go to’ jacket, because it’s the best all around performer out there. . It’s my jacket of choice because it’s so versatile: lightweight, warm and comfortable. Thanks @mountainhardwear !! Photos @jess_talley , @eliasaikaly


5 days ago

Garrett Madison
Garrett Madison
Time to say goodbye to Mount Everest, see you again in spring 2020! The @madisonmtng and @mhweverest2019 teams came fully prepared to go all the way but were prevented from climbing high due to challenging weather, difficult & unsafe route conditions (deep snow, etc) this season. We had a fun and productive expedition nonetheless and most importantly everyone came back down safely from Everest. Always a privilege to spend time in the Himalayas with good people, especially the @mountainhardwear climbing team of @joe_vernachio , @timemmett , as well as the @louderthan11 film team of @jonglassberg , @francoislebeau , @jess_talley ! Fun times hanging out on Everest with new friends @kilianjornet , @andrzejbargiel , @philippreiter007 , @carogredler and @carlos_llerandi ! Hope to see you all again soon in the mountains! Now, time to head home for some rest before climbing adventures this winter ❄️ ! Then looking forward to a return to #Everest 🏔!! #madisonmountaineering #mountainhardwear Photos @jess_talley


6 days ago

Garrett Madison
Garrett Madison
I’m very proud and excited to announce the launch of Mountain Hardwear’s ‘Garrett Madison Collection’, the very finest clothing and equipment for high altitude mountaineering in the world’s most extreme conditions. This gear has been meticulously designed and rigorously tested to the highest standards, for climbers wishing to challenge themselves on the world’s highest peaks, a collaboration between Mountain Hardwear and myself. A new standard has been set, thank you Mountain Hardwear for seeing the vision and following through on the hard work to create this elite product line, enabling high altitude climbers the best opportunity to achieve our dreams! Link in bio! -some items such as Trango tents and Phantom sleeping bags are available now, other items coming soon! @mountainhardwear #mountainhardwear @madisonmtng #madisonmountaineering #climb #mountaineering #adventure #dreams #everest


1 week ago

Significant Ascents & Expeditions


  • Everest (7 expeditions / ascents)
  • K2 (1 expedition / ascent)
  • Mt. Rainier (over 183 ascents)
  • Lhotse, 4th highest (2 ascents)
  • Makalu expedition (5th highest)
  • Manaslu expedition (8th highest)
  • Cho Oyu expedition (6th highest)
  • Aconcagua (11 expeditions)
  • Denali (3 expeditions)
  • Mt. Vinson, Antarctica (10 expeditions)
  • Kilimanjaro, Africa (3 expeditions)
  • Ama Dablam, Nepal (3 expeditions)
  • Mexico Volcanoes (6 expeditions)
  • Ecuador Volcanoes (2 expedition)
  • Peru (Cordillera Blanca)
  • Numerous climbs in Washington State (Mt. Baker, Shuksan, Olympus, North Cascades, etc.)

Personal Climbs

  • 6 ascents of Mont Blanc
  • 1 ascent of the Matterhorn
  • 1 attempt of Mt. Nuptse, Nepal (reached 7200 meters)


  • Wilderness First Responder
  • Level 2 Avalanche Forecasting for Guides
  • Leave No Trace Trainer


Leading 7 expeditions to Mt. Everest and having observed hundreds of climbers in challenging situations on the mountain, Garrett Madison has identified which techniques work, and more importantly which techniques do not work, in scaling the world’s highest Peak. Garrett articulates his strategy for success and survival on Everest, and touches on the following topics:

  • How to lead a diverse group of individuals through challenging circumstances and achieve success.
  • The Everest & Lhotse combination climb.
  • How to mitigate risk on Everest and the high mountains.
  • Garrett’s recent successful climb of K 2, the world’s second highest peak.

Garrett Madison’s presentation will engage your audience like never before as he recounts real life events that have shaped his strategy for success on Everest, with stunning video and photo content that will bring you directly to the mountain.


What a great presentation! Everyone was riveted during your talk! The images were outstanding and your message really resonated with everyone. Several people told me that this was the best dinner speaker ever. I think you inspired some future mountain climbers!

Tom Balistreri
Tom BalistreriPresident MUHS Fathers Club

It was terrific. The slides were amazing and his presentation was very tight and engaging

Garrett’s presentation was great. It was informative to those of us who may never reach that pinnacle of climbing

I loved every minute of Garrett’s presentation. It was just long enough to get a feel for what the climbs were like and short enough to keep my interest (I do not have a long attention span!) I believe that an audience of any interest level in climbing would find his talk very interesting

Let’s stay in touch!